Heb ik gecheat tijdens mijn duurzame kleding challenge?

duurzaam
Laatst stond ik voor een dilemma: mag ik dit shirtje wel meenemen? Is het wel duurzaam? 

Toen ik begon met de duurzame kleding challenge besloot ik om wél duurzame kleding te shoppen. De originele challenge houdt in dat je geen nieuwe kleding koopt. Je doet aan DIY of koopt tweedehands. Ik wilde mezelf niet teveel beperken dus ik besloot wel duurzaam te shoppen.  Daarbij wilde ik niet een kledingkast met tweedehands zooi na de challenge. Dat is niet het doel ervan. Dus een mix van duurzame kleding én tweedehands kleding it is. Dácht ik.

Want wanneer is iets echt duurzaam? Als er niet ‘Made in China’ op staat? Of als er gerecyclede materialen worden gebruikt? Wanneer het productieproces bestaat uit natuurlijke materialen? Ik weet het serieus niet. Ideaal is dat werknemers een goed loon krijgen, werken onder goeie arbeidsomstandigheden, duurzame materialen gebruiken én dat het kledingstuk betaalbaar is. Vaak is het één van de vier. Of is het mega duurzaam maar betaal ik bijna mijn huur.

Mijn struggles

Laatst stond ik met een trui van Jutka & Riska in mijn handen. Het was een gehaakte oversized trui in grijzig blauw. Ik was verliefd. Dit is te combineren met zoveel items. Maar was het wel duurzaam? De trui koste €40,-. Wel zo’n prijs alsof het duurzaam is. Ik pakte Google erbij en er stond alleen dit:

Jutka & Riska is a Dutch fashion label. We sell a mix of own design, hand-picked vintage and selected items of young designers.

Oke. Leuk. Maar is het dan duurzaam? Er staat nergens iets over materialen of productieprocessen. Dus hoe kan ik het dan weten? Tijdens het shoppen ga ik niet even het merk bellen. Stel dat het enige duurzame is dat het een Dutch fashion label is. Dus dat het lokaal gemaakt wordt met onbekende designers. Is het dan duurzaam?! Geen idee.

In mijn hoofd gaat het dan zo:

  • Wel duurzaam want: Nederlands merk, werken met jonge designers, geen massaproductie
  • Niet duurzaam want: geen duurzame materialen, gemaakt in Azië en onduidelijk over productieproces

Pepaloves

Hermien van Kouwe Kleren deelde het merk Pepaloves. Dit is een kledingmerk met vegan materialen en leuke betaalbare kleding (zie foto hierboven). Het dilemma was of het merk wel duurzaam was. Pepaloves produceert onder eerlijke omstandigheden in China. Het merk kan de eerlijke werksituatie garanderen. Deze garantie is mogelijk omdat het een klein familie bedrijf is. Ze hebben direct contact met de fabrieken waar hun kleding gemaakt wordt en gaan regelmatig langs. Maar toch: made in China. Dat klinkt niet heel duurzaam. Welke factoren spelen nou een rol in duurzaamheid?

  • Land van herkomst
  • Duurzame materialen
  • Milieuvriendelijk

Er zijn natuurlijk nog meer factoren. Maar deze drie zijn, naar mijn idee, het belangrijkst.

Wat maakt een item duurzaam?

Land van herkomst

Ruim vijfduizend Nederlandse bedrijven importeerden in 2015 kleding uit Azië. De totale waarde komt neer op ongeveer 7,2 miljard euro (bron). Het grootste aantal van onze kleding komt uit China, Bangladesh, Turkije en India. Met China op nummer 1. Waarom? De lage productiekosten en de grote concentratie van bedrijven. In Bangladesh is de kledingexport goed voor 50% van de export. Omdat kleding zo goedkoop wordt geproduceerd is kleding ook goedkoper. In Nederland betaal je minder voor kleding dan tien jaar geleden. Sterker nog: de prijs was de afgelopen tien jaar niet eerder zo laag.

Duurzame materialen

Meer dan één miljoen nieuwe kleding wordt vernietigd (bron). Ongeveer de helft wordt gerecycled tot vilt. De andere helft eindigt in de verbrandingsoven. Waarom wordt het niet tegen lage prijzen verkocht? Merken vernietigen liever hun kleding dan dat ze hun imago verstoren met sale. Nu zijn er een aantal merken die materialen herbruiken. Zo kan je kleding vinden dat gemaakt is van petflessen, autobanden of gerecyclede stoffen zoals katoen. H&M heeft bijvoorbeeld de optie om kleding in te leveren. Kleding die je niet draagt gaat de H&M gebruiken voor een nieuw kledingstuk of als energiebron.

Milieuvriendelijk

Om een kledingstuk te produceren worden materialen uit allerlei landen gehaald. Niet elk land heeft strenge milieuregels. Zo kan het dus zijn dat bepaalde materialen veel milieuschade veroorzaken. Voor katoen zijn er bijvoorbeeld veel bestrijdingsmiddelen en kunstmest nodig. Maar ook tijdens het produceren kunnen er problemen ontstaan. Een kledingstuk wordt soms gebleekt of geverfd. Speciale materialen worden ook waterafstotend, brandwerend of kreukvrij gemaakt. Tijdens dit proces worden chemische stoffen gebruikt. Zo werd er eens ontdekt dat er kankerverwekkende verfstoffen worden gebruikt. Dit is niet alleen slecht voor het milieu, maar ook voor de werknemers (bron). Het transport vanuit Azië is ook niet bepaalt milieuvriendelijk.

Meer lezen over duurzame fashion?

  • Documentaires: The True Cost, Nukuhiva, The Next Black en De wereld volgens H&M
  • Boeken: Dit is een goede gids, Talking dress en Mode voor Morgen
  • Websites: Rank a Brand en Fairwear

duurzaam

Conclusie

Ik heb de trui gekocht. Het steunen van Nederlandse bedrijven zie ik als iets duurzaams. Het had immers ook in China gemaakt kunnen worden. Voor elk item, merk of winkel kan of moet je een afweging maken. Organic cotton kan voor jou duurzaam zijn. En dat is helemaal oké. Duurzaam betekent namelijk ook dat een item lang mee gaat. Als je een item koopt waar je goed over nadenkt, waar je zuinig op bent of dat je lang draagt. Dan is dat toch ook duurzaam? Het beste voor de aarde, de werknemers en jezelf is natuurlijk een duurzaam productieproces. Maar houdbaarheid is ook belangrijk.

Voor mijn challenge shop ik alleen bij merken die voor mijn gevoel duurzaam zijn. Dit klinkt zweverig, maar dat is voor mij niet zo. Het kan in de categorie materialen, milieuvriendelijk of land van herkomst vallen. Dit zijn merken waar ik me goed bij voel en items die ik lang kan dragen. Een echte betekenis van duurzaam bestaat niet. Daarom ben ik heel benieuwd naar jouw mening!

Wanneer vind jij een merk duurzaam? Let me know!

Afbeeldingen: Schone kleren campagne

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